February 18th, 2010 in Featured, Lifestyle

Newbie Fashion Tips for Grown-Up Men

Just over a month ago, I ran into a friend at a CES event. While I see this friend around town once in a while, this was the first time I’d seen him in a non-casual setting since Blogworld 4 months earlier. After exchanging the usual pleasantries, he asked me an odd question: “Is this like your conference party outfit?”

Indeed, I was wearing the exact same clothes I’d worn to the event four months earlier. Since he doesn’t usually see me dressed up, it stood out enough for him to remember. But that’s not the real point, here; the real point is that I have few clothes suitable for “adult” gatherings.

I have a suit, of course, for weddings and funerals. (I haven’t had a job interview in 9 years, but if I did, it would be suitable for that, too.) And I have my day-to-day clothes, which aren’t awful but which aren’t anything to brag about, either. Functional casual, basically: jeans and khakis, an assortment of button-front shirts, some cotton sweaters.

As a college professor, there’s not a lot of pressure on me to dress up. If anything, it’s just the opposite. For one thing, I interact regularly with younger people, mostly teenagers (I teach 100-level courses), and being too formal creates a barrier between my students and me. That might be ok in business or law (think John Houseman in Paper Chase) but for my classes and my teaching style, some level of rapport is crucial. For another thing, my fellow professors don’t exactly set the sartorial bar very high – and there’s a certain sense of bohemian “me-against-The-Machine” attitude expressed by violating “corporate” standards of dress.

But mostly I dress the way I do because I’ve never really learned how to dress otherwise. Like a lot of my fellow geeks, fashion just wasn’t on the radar for me. Fortunately I have a brother who has always been very fashion-conscious, and he’d take me in hand every few years when my fashion sense got too out of touch with reason and social acceptability.

Well, my friend’s off-hand comment was a wake-up call for me. I mean, I’m a grown man – I should have more than one pair of slacks and one shirt nice enough to wear to an industry event without embarrassing myself! So I set out to educate myself on some fashion basics – what shoes go with what kind of trousers, how to distinguish various sorts of dress shirts, and so on.

I did what any true-blooded geek does when he or she wants to find out about a new topic: I googled it. But what I found was scattered, often contradictory, and for a newbie like me, downright confusing. A lot of the information out there is tied to specific social contexts: the workplace, the nightclub, and dating, mainly. And a lot of it’s quite vague – the answer to most questions is “it depends on your personal style” which I’m sure it does, but what if you don’t know your personal style yet?!

With some perseverance, a few trips to department stores, and the help of friends on Twitter, I managed to assemble the following rules. As with all rules, they’re meant to be broken – but only by people who know how to break them. For the rest of us, this is a pretty good primer on basic men’s fashion.

Dress Suits

1. You eventually want to own three suits. Your first suit should be either navy blue or gray, possibly with a light chalk stripe (like a pinstripe, but softer), and in an all-season, medium weight. Either of these colors will fit into most social settings. Your second suit should be the one you didn’t get the first time around. Your third should be black – not for funerals, but for black tie affairs. If you work in a field where suits are the norm, you’ll probably want more than three; once you’ve covered the basics, you can move on to more distinctive suits (pinstripes, different weights, unconventional colors, etc.).

2. Suits are made of wool or cotton. Higher thread counts signify higher quality, but are ironically not as durable, so stick with something mid-range. Ask the salesperson to help you with this. (Yes, ask the salesperson. Suits are not self-serve.) Synthetic fibers need not apply.

3. You never button the bottom button. Apparently, Edward VII got fat and couldn’t button his vest over his belly, so now nobody does. On a three-button jacket, you button the middle; the top button is optional. If you have a jacket with 4 or more button, you obviously know what you’re doing already.

4. A gentleman carries a handkerchief in his front breast pocket. You don’t have to get fancy, just fold it square to fit and have 1/4” to 1/2” sticking out the top. Then proffer it as needed. And wash it after.

Shirts

1. Don’t wear your sleeves too short or too long. 1/4” to 1/2” of cuff should show beyond your jacket sleeve.

2. Shirts with button-down collars are not dress shirts. They’re sports shirts, so wear them with a sports coat. Polo players used to button their collars down so they wouldn’t flap up in their face while they played. (Are you beginning to sense a theme here? Fashion rules are largely dictated by what English gentleman and nobility did generations or even centuries ago. Sports coats? You wore them during sport, i.e. hunting. Regimental stripes on ties? They indicated your regiment in the British military. And so on.)

3. If you unbutton your collar, remove your tie. You can wear a suit or sports coat without a tie – just ask Obama – but wearing a tie with an unbuttoned shirt looks sloppy.

4. You can unbutton the top button always (provided you’re not wearing a tie), the second button usually, the third button only on disco night at the Rollerama.

Trousers

1. Wear your pants at your natural waist. Too high and you look like Grampa, too low and you look like a high school kid. Your waistband should sit 2-3 inches below your belly button.

2. Pants should almost touch the ground without your shoes on. Jeans can be a little longer, since they shrink a bit when you wash them.

3. One pleat, maximum. If you’re a big guy, like I am, you learned somewhere along the line that pleats are slimming. They’re not. At best, they look like you’re a big guy trying to look slimmer; at worst, they actually make you look heavier because they pull out across you, broadening your appearance. In any case, the job of a pleat is to maintain that crease sown the front of your pants. For pants without that crease (and many with it), pleats are unnecessary; for pants that need the pleat, they only need one.

4. 1” to 1 1/2” cuffs. Or not. There’s nothing wrong with cuffs, there’s nothing wrong with no cuffs. They are understood, however, to be an older man’s style – not in a bad way, think sophisticated, experienced, distinguished, and conservative. For younger men, a cleaner line is generally preferred.

5. A useful piece of trivia for the American abroad: in British English, “pants” are underwear. So if, for instance, you are in London and get invited out and maybe your trousers are dirty from work, don’t say “I’d love to go out, I just need to go home and change my pants first.” And if someone should ask, “Why, are your pants dirty?”, don’t say, “Yeah, I always get my pants dirty at work.” You will be laughed at. Er, I assume.

Shoes

1. Pay attention to your shoes. Everyone else does. It’s hard for the non-fashion-maven to tell a more expensive suit from a less expensive one, a high-quality shirt from a medium-quality one, and so on. But everyone can tell cheap or poorly cared-for shoes. Buy the best ones you can afford, and take care of them. Polish them regularly (a few swipes with a wax-infused polishing cloth is often all it takes) and store them covered if you won’t be wearing them for a long time. Shoe trees, it turns out, are important: they not only hold the shape of the shoe but the cedar ones absorb moisture (and thus odors) which helps preserve the leather. (Aside: women tend to pay a lot of attention to men’s shoes. Keep that in mind when a) dating, and b) interviewing for a job.)

2. Shoes are made of leather (besides sneakers). Anything not made of leather you can consider a non-shoe. Leather breathes and adapts to the shape of your foot. The soles don’t have to be leather, but the uppers do. (True story: as a young man, my brother was a car salesman here in Vegas. In the summer, the tarmac could get well over 150 degrees F. Standing out there with leather-soled shoes could give you second-degree burns! So they wore rubber soles, which melted after a month or two and had to be replaced.)

3. You need more than one pair of shoes, but not too much more. Black oxfords (lace-up dress shoes), black loafers (slip-on shoes), brown oxfords or loafers, and you’re set (not counting your athletic shoes, of course). A pair of ankle-high boots in black or brown can substitute for the loafers. Ox-blood (burgundy) shoes are harder to find but in theory go with everything. You can pretty safely ignore white shoes.

4. The shinier the shoe, the dressier. Matte-finish shoes – nubuck (that pebbly leather), suede, and distressed leather shoes are automatically compatible with jeans or khakis; shinier shoes might still go with jeans but it depends on the rest of your outfit, the dressier you are the shinier your shoes can be. If you can wear them with a suit, you probably can’t wear them with jeans, and vice versa.

5. Shoes should be the same tone or darker than your pants. This is all the rule you need to know when trying to figure out what shoes to wear. This is why you never wear brown shoes with black trousers, but you can usually wear black shoes with brown trousers. When in doubt, wear black.

Accessories

1. Match your belt to your shoes. It doesn’t have to be a perfect match, as long as you wear a black belt with black shoes and a brown belt with brown shoes.

2. Match your socks to your pants. Again, it doesn’t have to be a perfect match – a little lighter or darker is fine. If you don’t have socks to match your pants, you can match your shoes, or just wear black socks.

3. White socks are for sports. Only. Unless you are a) wearing sneakers, and b) doing something athletic in them, avoid white socks.

4. Your tie should reach your belt. Anything short of your belt makes you look like a rube.

5. Try a front-pocket wallet or money clip. This will save wear-and-tear on your back pocket (helping to avoid the heartbreak of “buttsquare”), help avoid pickpockets (a little – the good ones know…), and save your back. Plus: classy!

6. You’re allowed one affectation. A fedora. A pocket watch. A bracelet or class ring. A vest (if you’re not wearing a three-piece suit). An expensive wristwatch. Pick one, but no more – give your whatever-it-is space to say whatever-it-says.

If it feels like these rules are arbitrary and stifling, they are. Think of it like learning how to paint: first, you do a still-life (arbitrary) using just one color (stifling). Eventually you move up to two and three colors, then maybe a warm or cool palette, and your subjects might expand to include figures or landscapes. Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can begin to press against the rules, juxtaposing non-complementary colors or painting unconventional subjects.

In fashion as in art – style emerges not from a lack of rules but from a mastery of them, from making them serve you instead of the other way around. If you’re a geek like me, you need to dial a fresh start – clear your closets of all those conference freebie t-shirts, put a shine on your shoes, and burn your butt-crack pants. Ultimately, these rules are not at all about tamping down your personality but about learning how to express it. And unfair as it is, people will take you more seriously when you dress with a modicum of style.

Anyone else have tips for the newcomer to the world of style? Give us your best advice in the comments.

QUICK UPDATE: Comments are coming on this post faster than I can get them modded in. If your comment was sent but doesn’t show up, don’t send it again – it’s in my moderation queue and I’ll get to it as soon as I can. Thanks – loving all the great comments on this post!

Dustin Wax

Dustin M. Wax is a freelance writer and project manager at Stepcase Lifehack. He can be reached though his freelancing site at DustinWax.com, where his various projects can be viewed. When he's not writing, he teaches anthropology and gender studies in Las Vegas, NV. He is the author of Don't Be Stupid: A Guide to Learning, Studying, and Succeeding at College.

Follow him on Twitter: @dwax.

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Rahul says on February 18th, 2010 at 5:48 am
Funny this post comes now, as I made the same realization. I'm almost forty and get mistaken for a high-schooler or college kid. Sure I have a young face, but I also dress the part.
I just went shopping for my blue blazer and grey suit yesterday. A great resource I found is he book Details: Men's Style Manual .
Amber says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:11 am
You might check this out too:
http://www.wardrobeoxygen.com/.....t-every-...
Amber says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:13 am
re: cuffs on pants. If you are shorter than
5' 9" or so, skip the cuffs. They break up the line of the leg and make you look shorter.
Matt says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:18 am
Thanks for the tips. As much as I despise formal wear, it would be nice to have some sort of fashionable wardrobe.
I don't suppose you could write a guide for business casual? That's what I'm forced to wear to work. A guide for casual wear would also be great; I simply wear t-shirts and jeans every day.
Pierre-Luc says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:23 am
These are really the basics.
But I'll have to foward this to one of my friend!
Dad is in the House says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:29 am
Thanks Dustin, great post. @Matt business casual is a trick foisted on Gen X & Y by the baby boomers to make us look like dolts and keep us from taking over their corner offices! Just say no! Suits are cool tho.
BTW, I don't really think most of us need to own a tux or "black-tie" suit. People used to have occasions to wear stuff like that. I live in Seattle. If I wore a tux anywhere people would think I was an aging prom-goer.
Andy Levy-Stevenson says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:29 am
"3. White socks are for sports. Only. Unless you are a) wearing sneakers, and b) doing something athletic in them, avoid white socks."
Gotta push back on that one … if you're wearing sneakers, you wear white socks.
Dress socks with sneakers is only one step above socks with sandals!
Dad is in the House says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:32 am
Oh, one more thing. Andy, thanks for the reminder. In Europe, there are white dress socks. They are finely knitted and don't say "HANES" on them. I don't understand when they are worn but maybe a reader can tell us.
enjanerd says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:37 am
This is great! I'd love to see a similar article for women. There are lots of sites on women's fashion, but they never seem straightforward and simple.
groupie says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:39 am
Does not apply to rockstars :P
Kev says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:50 am
What a great article! Thanks for writing it up!
Ace Frahm says on February 18th, 2010 at 6:50 am
Buttons are to be buttoned. If you leave your own bottom suit button undone, that's your own business. But if you tell others they should undo theirs because some other man's long dead king was morbidly obese, you'll come across as complete ass . . . . . Americans don't have kings, they have freedom (while it lasts).
jd says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:00 am
Shoes; point #5…, unless you're Patrick Jane from the Mentalist. Then you can get away with brown shoes and a blue suit, or just about anything.
Ace Frahm says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:04 am
All buttons are to be buttoned. If you leave yours unbuttoned, that's your business, but if you were actually tell someone else the obesity of a long dead king of other men who don't themselves even have kings anymore is a good reason to do so. . . . you'll be telling them "I'm an ass!". You'd also be violating american military standards. Why do you hate our troops?
Claus says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:07 am
A great article. I think the classical fashion is a almost too forgotten concept today.
Also, would it be correct to assume the correct headwear for the man would be nothing at all, or a fitting hat? (Never a bowler)
Toby says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:09 am
Uh oh, better tell, er, Tom Ford about shirts rule 2. Colin Firth wears a button-down collar with a regular suit jacket throughout A Single Man.
calittle says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:10 am
John Houseman, Paper Chase? Does anyone else remember that show?? Yeah, I guess we're old.
Marcus says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:18 am
Perfect timing. I was just thinking of investing in some classy dapper-ware. I've found that, being tall, finding pants that are long enough can be a hassle. The ones I'm wearing now (some tame and functional military pants) are a good 4-5 inches above my shoe when sitting.
Of all things to feel insecure about, that is mine. Oy.
Also, I'm 23 and know who John Houseman is…sort of. I watched an MST3K with him in it and they just called him The Paper Chase Guy the whole time. So there you go.
Doug Clark says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:23 am
Here's what I often do:
I'm very casual, and typically stick with the t-and-jeans mantra, but if I want to spruce things up a bit, I'll wear jeans (usually good ones, American Eagle has great jeans and are often on sale), a dress shirt (short or long-sleeved, depending on season, typically white but not always), and a tie (i prefer skinny ties – they're hot in fashion right now and they add the "skinny" illusion). I usually let the tie loose an inch or so and lose the top button (OMG, breaking rules!).
Because it's with jeans, it looks better than casual but not quite dress. The loose tie looks nice if done right and not flopping all over the place. And, if you have to step into a meeting with someone you're trying to impress, button that button back up and tighten the tie. You're still technically "casual" because of the jeans, but you still put on a good impression.
JPC says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:40 am
"Pay attention to your shoes. Everyone else does." You mean "The Shawshank Redemption" lied to me?
Adam says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:45 am
@jd – these are the basics. you're allowed to break rules once you learn how, just like the article says.
That can also be part of the 1 affectation rule.
A la Jason Boreanaz in Bones (crazy socks, or belt)
Fry says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:45 am
"4. Your tie should reach your belt. Anything short of your belt makes you look like a rube."
I play sax in a swing band, so I sit exposed in the front row. In that situation, I do wear the tie a bit higher just so it's not dangling a ton between my legs while sitting. When standing up, your jacket can usually cover up the bottom of the tie so you're not showing shirt between tie and trousers (not that there's much, I aim for tip of tie to top of pants). And of course when up and about on a break, button that middle button!
This is just a particular occasion for an adjustment though.
Side note on ties: If there is a buffet possible, get a tie clip or chain. That saves you a bit of embarrassment when reaching over for a roll and your tie reaches right into the potato salad.
Christian Decker says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:48 am
Thanks for the tips, I think they'll come in handy pretty soon for me :-)
Jake Barnes says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:56 am
If you need these tips, you're helpless. First suit blue??? Your first suit should be BLACK. 1" cuff?? What french cuff shirt has a 1" cuff? ??
William Murray says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:56 am
If you're looking for more guidance on men's fashion, I wholeheartedly recommend two books: "Detail's Men's Style Guide" and "Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion." You might also consider Esquire's "The Handbook of Style: A Man's Guide to Looking Good."
William Murray says on February 18th, 2010 at 8:00 am
@Jake Barnes
Black is a poor choice for a first suit because it is typically a formal color. A blue or gray suit can more easily be adapted to various social engagements by making adjustments to the rest of your wardrobe (i.e. wearing or not wearing a tie). And when he talked about cuffs, he was referring to the cuffs at your ankles, not at your wrists.
It's unfortunate when the people who could most likely use this type of advice think they already know what they're talking about!
Don Marti says on February 18th, 2010 at 8:06 am
Your wallet is not a filing cabinet for all your vendor affinity cards and every receipt you're going to put on your expense report. Go through it, file away safely what you don't need, and show up to the party without a big lump in your pants. (Or some people just put driver's license, credit card, cash in a money clip.)
Michael says on February 18th, 2010 at 8:16 am
I am just a low to average dresser, and not usually critical, but a shirt tucked into pants or jeans with no belt makes me wince. Is that a rule or just me?
Paul Fox says on February 18th, 2010 at 8:25 am
@Jake Barnes: Obviously you need these tips if you don't know them.
First off, a blue suit is much more commonly used for business than a black suit. If your first suit is for weddings and funerals, then I agree with black. But if it's for business, then definitely blue is more common.
Second, a 1" cuff is referring to your PANTS.
Travis Bradshaw says on February 18th, 2010 at 8:47 am
@Jake The 1" cuff guideline was in the * trousers* section, not the shirt section.
Maybe you should listen up…
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 9:00 am
Rahul: I'm in the same boat. And while it's not the worst feeling in the world when someone says, "really, I thought you were much younger" when I tell them how old I am, it does make me wonder if I might not be taken as seriously as I ought to be sometimes.
Matt: I hadn't intended this to be about formal dress, but perhaps because that's the most difficult area for me (and probably most men) there were more "unknowns" to discus there than elsewhere. Take out the section on suits and most of this applies to smart or business casual as well. I might take you up on the suggestion of a look at "just plain" casual — t-shirts, shorts, sandals, that sort of thing. Of course the most important thing ever in the whole world is this:
Don't wear socks with sandals.
Dad is in the House: There's a saying that you should always dress for the job you want, not the job you have, so there may well be something to your theory that instituting a more casual workplace is The Suits' way of tricking the ambitious young into dressing for the job they have. I agree, a tux is probably unnecessary – I've had exactly two occasions in my whole life to wear one. If you would wear it once a year or more, it becomes a decent investment. A black suit is much more versatile, though, as unlike a tux it's not too formal for the workplace, court appearances, or other everyday wear.
Enjanerd: I'm kind of hoping that one of our female writers will roll with this idea for women. I couldn't possibly begin to comprehend it all — I can barely dress myself, you think I could tell you how to fit a bra or when to wear pumps?
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 9:18 am
Andy L-S: Yeah, don't wear dress socks with your sneaks, but you can wear athletic socks in other colors than white! The thing about white socks is that they attract attention to themselves when placed between, say, a blue jean leg and a navy blue sneaker. Your sock acts as a "continuation" of your pants leg (when your pant leg rides up while sitting, for example).
Groupie: You are *absolutely* right — if your *job* is to break rules, your fashion should do so likewise. Flavor Flav can work 6 affectations at once, Kurt Cobain could wear a dress, Bjork can wear livestock, and Sid Vicious could wear scrap leather and safety pins. Also: artists, movie stars, and comedians.
Ace: None of this applies to uniforms of any sort — the whole point of which is to eliminate personal style from one's fashion. But if you're not in dress blues, greens, or whites, the bottom button remains unbuttoned.
Claus: Wearing a hat at all is such an affectation today that there are really no rules for it. The exception is baseball caps; I think a lot of men can manage a cap while looking stylish (think Tiger Woods) — only casually, of course.
Toby: The rule for button-down collars is you can wear them with a suit before 6pm. At work, yes; at the opera, no. The best description I found was that they are the most casual of dress shirts and the most dressy of casual shirts. Also: Colin Firth can wear whatever he wants.
Calittle: I was thinking of the movie, actually — I had totally forgotten there was a TV show, too!
Marcus: Tall skinny guys and short heavy guys need tailors. Also, you might want to think about ordering trousers online or special ordering them in the right length — I'm sure there are specialty stores that carry extra-long sizes.
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 9:30 am
Fry: Thank you! Now I know what tie clips are for! As you say, there are situations where some fashion choices just aren't possible — then style gives way to function. Men are lucky that way, we're expected to be able to *do* things even when it means sacrificing fashion sense. Think of all the poor women in those incredibly un-sensible high heels!
Jake: Notice the 1" cuffs were under "trousers", not shirts. Shirt cuffs aren't really optional. A black suit is not really as versatile as navy or gray, since it's inherently a lot more formal. Most experts say navy blue should first, since that's the most versatile of them all.
Michael: If you tuck, wear a belt — that seems like good sense to me. Some men can get away without it, but I think it's telling that virtually all men's pants have belt loops (while most women's pants do not).
I'm glad to see so much discussion here — it looks like I touched a nerve for men. I actually thought this might be a huge waste of time, since some of the points seem so basic, but apparently it's not. Glad some of this is helpful.
Christina says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:04 am
A few more general rules of fashion from the younger female perspective:
1. It is never OK to wear light wash jeans, or pants of any style that do not reach your shoes (AKA Flood). The style now (and for the past 20 years- AKA nearly my entire life) is a darker wash. You don't have to get crazy with the designs on the back pockets…but even Levi's come in dark washes these days guys.
Jeans that are in light washes say that the jeans are outdated or just plain old. Take your jeans that are light wash or too short and send them to the Good Will. (You know they are too short if you stand and they do not go nearly to the ground, or when you sit they are halfway up your leg exposing anything past the tops of your shoes). The women in your life will appreciate it.
2. Casual Friday or Business Casual does NOT mean causal attire- Don't show up in jeans and sneakers…
This means a collared shirt- tie optional, or a nice sweater, slacks, and dress shoes. Basically what you would wear for business formal, but minus the jacket and tie.
Business Casual still has the word Business in it…meaning, if you were unexpectedly visited by your Boss's Boss, you would want to feel comfortable in your attire…not rocking the faded band t-shirt you scored in your youth. The world today is waaay too casual…I am only 23 years old, and I KNOW that seems too young to be making "The World Today" statements, but I know what I am talking about guys.
3. Do not overlook hygiene as a part of your look.
This means: take a shower, make sure your hair is clean-not greasy, your face and body are washed, teeth cleaned, and deodorant applied.
I swear, it should go without saying, but some guys think it is perfectly acceptable to go to work with unwashed hair, with out showering, etc. NOPE- girls notice, guys notice, your boss notices, your clients notice…
I am all for jeans, t shirts, and flip-flops…but that is casual wear that is never acceptable at the office. Think of business attire as your work or special occasion uniform, jeans are your casual uniform suitable for after work, at home, and weekends.
IN SUMMARY:
The point of business attire, and even business casual attire is to look professional. The way you dress is a direct reflection of your self-confidence. Wearing jeans and a t-shirt to work says that you do not view yourself as a professional…and if you don't… why should your boss? Dress the part, and others will treat you as a professional.
I will leave you with this image:
If guys see a girl dressed like a stripper- you would probably assume she is one.
If girls see a guy dressed like a slob- they probably assume he is one.
-If you wear a professional and classy wardrobe, that will lead people to assume you are professional and classy.
Chris says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:17 am
To pitch in about the europe thing, at least italy: the REALLY cool people here wear their dark suits with light brown shoes… that cost upwards of 1000 bucks. so really it all comes down to the brand of shoe, which people over here know from a distance. and as for white socks i've seen them worn with white pants and white shoes (yes they do that, even in the winter) and jeans and brown shoes. interesting, no?
DanGarion says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:23 am
I just wanted to say this is a great starter list for any guy that wants to start dressing nicer. Thanks!
ChuckEye says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:24 am
"Your third should be black – not for funerals, but for black tie affairs."
Are there options for black tie affairs other than the standard tuxedo? I know some functions require "black tie", but I hate the look of silk lapels and stripes on the trouser seams. Are there commonly accepted alternatives?
Jane says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:34 am
Concerning the buttoning of all three (or four; even two) buttons on a suit's jacket I can offer just one simple tip: don't. Unless you want to look like you've just left high school, of course. Similarly, jackets with no vent: don't. Two is best, one is acceptable. None falls into the just-left-high-school group.
Going further, if you're in a 'old' professional job – law, upper finance and such, remember this: all work shoes have laces. It's as simple as that.
My qualifications for supporting this advice: I am English, and female.
Greg L. says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:42 am
Good article for those who need the help, and I might send it out anonymously to my team. I work for a very large IT company (think blue), and I see some pretty amazing fashion faux pas. A couple of additions based on the things I see most:
1. If your shirt has a button-down collar, button it down. It looks like you forgot to finish putting on your shirt, and there's a reason that collar has holes in it. If you want a point or spread collar, buy a dress shirt with that collar (and use collar stays – the plastic things in the collar)
2. If you don't like to iron, either invest in getting to know your dry cleaner, or invest in some Brooks Brothers non-iron shirts (the only non-iron shirt I've ever found that really is non-iron). It doesn't matter if your clothes match and fit perfectly, if your shirt is wrinkled you look like a slob.
3. Consider expanding your wardrobe search beyond the typical mall stores. Men's stores span across most budgets (Jos. A Bank, Brooks Brothers, etc.), and as a general rule have higher quality clothes and more size options than anywhere else. Good quality clothes (especially classic suits) are an investment and will last a long time if taken care of properly.
4. Last and most important, only buy clothes you like (or dislike the least). I see guys in my office that clearly hate the clothes they have to wear to work, and most of the married ones never picked them out, but you have to find something in the guidelines that best suits your style. After a few weeks of dressing well it won't seem as unbearable, and you'll find your own style.
Jane says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:46 am
Furthermore, concerning shirts for *any* occasion, please don't wear shirts with differing collar/cuffs to the main body of the shirt. Blue/white striped shirt with bold plain white cuffs and collar? Unless you're actually stuck in the 80's please go to your wardrobe now- or when home- and lose them. They're powerful shirts, powerfully projecting that you are a jerk.
Hulbert says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:50 am
Nice article here. My professors in college didn't dress up to fashionable, and I think your article here gives us good tips on how to dress fashionable for men (like me) who aren't so fashioned-inclined. Thanks for this.
Jo_Ava says on February 18th, 2010 at 11:01 am
Re: tie clips — when I was in England this autumn, I happened to come across this letter to the editor in the FT: http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/009a.....1de-98b1...
Heaven forbid you should be "naff and common" in the effort to keep your tie spiffy at the buffet!
Dave Kaiser says on February 18th, 2010 at 11:03 am
Regarding the bit about "personal style," what are some adjectives that you think describe yourself? Bold? Conservative? Traditional? Creative? Your wardrobe should reflect that. As for me, I will wear red socks with a black pinstripe suit and red tie, and get tons of compliments because that suits my style. Someone more traditional would never get away with that.
Dave
http://www.DarkMatterConsulting.com
SJS says on February 18th, 2010 at 11:26 am
What's missing is the caveat. If you *loathe* some aspect of fashion — I despise blue suits and pin/chalk strips — then avoid them. You'll be uncomfortable and unhappy, and your body language will convey this.
If you want to "suck it up and conform", join the military and then wear a uniform.
Speaking of military uniforms, leave the "do this stupid thing because there's a historical reason for it" to the military uniform. Button your jacket as makes sense to you at that point in time. Care more about wearing a clean shirt than one without a button-down collar. Form should follow function and comfort.
On the other hand, learn to tie a tie. Clip-ons are tackier than wearing no tie at all — you're advertising your incompetence.
Ties aren't nearly so bad if the neck of the shirt is the correct size. I spent twenty years hating ties before I discovered that everyone (family, store help, etc.) had been recommending overly-tight necks. Consequently, I still avoid wearing a tie out of a sort of neurotic habit.
(And if you're overweight, for the love of god, don't choose a collar that results in a roll-over of flesh. You'll look like a dick with the foreskin held back by the tie.)
Mandarin collars are often a good way to avoid wearing a tie, and they add a slightly exotic look. On the other hand, if you drip on your tie, it's easier to change than if you drip on your shirt.
If you could stand to lose some weight, make sure you get suspenders with your trousers. That way if you lose the weight (diet, exercise, get sick…) you don't have to cinch up the belt to keep your trousers on, which looks a bit tacky.
And don't bother with the "lifetime tailoring" guarantee. It's a scam. If you gain/lose weight enough to need tailoring, it'll be out of spec, so you'll still have to buy a new suit.
Joshua says on February 18th, 2010 at 11:39 am
Fortunately, as I type this I get to work in an environment where I can where Nikes and a ballcap all day (some of us even walk around barefoot). However, I'm usually at a total loss on those rare occasions I DO have to get dressed up and now I have a nice bookmark I can refer to whenever that happens :) The only recent struggle I had was how long an overcoat should be (I'm fairly short at 5'8") and I didn't want to look like a little kid wearing my dad's clothes!
Dave says on February 18th, 2010 at 11:48 am
So several months later you happen to be wearing the same outfit…so what? I work in retail and I take a lot of pride in how a dress. If someone first saw me, they would most likely comment on me being stylish.
BUT people will almost comment of me wearing the same outfit they saw last time because I choose not to buy so many clothes. Know how match, understand cuts and fits. But do not buy into the trap that you need a new outfit, or even worse, different articles of clothing for each possible event in your life!
Our ever growing wardrobes are just what large retailers want us to believe we need. If someone judges you for seeing you in the same outfit twice…then they are a pawn to marketing-this is not some conspiracy theory, it's just really good business.
de-ma says on February 18th, 2010 at 12:31 pm
Could you find a female colleague to please write up similar rules for women? I'm a med student who'll soon need to step up the wardrobe when I start seeing patients in clinic, and I'm endlessly jealous of the guys in my class who throw on slacks, a button-down shirt, and a tie and can call it a day. Please help!
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 1:10 pm
Dave: I see where you're coming from, and I agree — a few basic classics is better than chasing whatever's in or feeling pressured to own something new every day. BUt I think you missed the point a little: it wasn't that I wore the same thing, but that I wore it because I had no choice — I'd made no room in my wardrobe for simply attending a conference event, so had to go with whatever I could find. As it happens, it's a nice enough outfit, but as an expression of my style, identity, personality, or whatever you want to call it, there ought to be some sense of choice.
And more to the point: it made me realize that most of my clothes were not choice I'd made but a path I'd fallen into. For instance, somewhere along the line I've picked up several pairs of jeans, and for some reason I wear them pretty regularly. But I don't really like jeans — they're too hot, too binding, and too heavy (I live in Vegas where nakedness is the only rational choice, and if not that, then linen) But I'd gotten the snese that slacks were overdressing, and frankly, that should never have been a concern. My run-in with my friend only drove home to me that I had gotten down to a single pair of decent, well-fitting, *adult* slacks.
Jason says on February 18th, 2010 at 1:11 pm
Most of these are good. I would just loosen up a few of them because I feel they are more fashion statements rather than style statements. In other words they won't be true forever.
"One pleat maximum" – So Cary Grant was dressing poorly all these years? Two is fine. But the pant must be tailored well.
"Shirts with button-down collars are not dress shirts". This one goes in and out of style. Right now they are decidedly considered dress shirts and in some cases are the preferred dress shirt with the fashionable.
"Shirts should be the same tone or darker". Again this is one that changes with the fashion seasons. In NY right now a slightly lighter brown pairded with a dark suit is considered de rigeur.
"Your tie should reach your belt". Preferably your tie should touch the top of your belt buckle. If it misses, it is preferable to miss on the too short side. Anything below the belt is considered sloppy.
Rebecca says on February 18th, 2010 at 1:14 pm
A guy this concerned with appearances should know the difference between "sown" and "sewn." ;-) But good tips!
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 1:17 pm
"Everybody wants to be Cary Grant. Even *I* want to be Cary Grant." –Cary Grant
Jason: Someone who knows what he's doing — as Cary Grant indubitably did (though check out how high-waisted his pants always were!) — can get away with breaking any and all of these rules. But you have to know what you're doing, and that doesn't come from throwing out all your skater shorts and ripped jeans and heading to the store for a pair or double- or triple-pleated pants. Or going to that important interview in a suit and button-down collar. If you have to explain that all the New York fashionistas are dressing this way, you're NOT pulling it off. If you know what you are doing, you can just ROCK IT. That's why this is the Newbie's Guide.
Mrs. Nerd says on February 18th, 2010 at 1:25 pm
Thanks so much for this! I've passed it along to my fashion-challenged better half!
A Fashionable Guy says on February 18th, 2010 at 1:34 pm
Tucking a shirt in to pants with belt loops is a no-no. My friends and I refer to this jokingly as "tucknobelt" (As in "Check out the tucknobelt hitting on that girl!")
We say that some things never go out of style, but the truth is things change. If you've had a suit for more than a few (let's say 5) years, you should definitely examine whether it is still fashionable. A simple black suit from 10 years ago may not look any different from a simple suit from today, but chances are if you're looking for fashion help you can't tell the difference. Here's an analogy that I think is fitting: my four year old can't tell or appreciate the difference between frozen food and fine dining.
Even if you don't wear them often you should replace your jeans yearly. I know it's mocking womens fashion, but take a look on the internet for the "Mom Jeans" commercial from SNL to get my point.
Jeans don't go with everything.-+ Unless your age ends with "-teen", or you're singing "End of the Road" with a Boyz II Men cover band, don't wear a tie with jeans.
And under no circumstances should you ever wear a shirt (tucked in), tie, 5 year-old jeans, and no belt!
Bertram says on February 18th, 2010 at 2:16 pm
I have been successfully wearing sneakers to work for decades (e.g. IBM, Oracle, Cray Research, consulting jobs, etc). The key is they must look like dress shoes. By this I mean sneakers that don't have WHITE, rubber toe guards, and they sit on the floor like dress shoes.
WHITE on your shoes or socks is wrong, when it comes to business.
The uppers should be Black leather (canvas is OK till it fades). The rubber sides, thread, etc should all be the same color (e.g. Black). Shoes should sit on the floor NOT jump up at you.
I'll wear Vans slip-on Black/Black (Monochrome) for causal days; Urban Outfitters has had some plimsolls (UK sneakers) meeting these requirements. They are out there but you need to be conservative.
JGLB says on February 18th, 2010 at 2:25 pm
Regarding handkerchiefs, what you're tucking into the front breast pocket of a coat or jacket would be more appropriately known as a pocket square. A linen handkerchief can be used as a pocket square, but if so you'd most certainly want to have a second handkerchief on your person for your own personal use, and possibly a third if you were say going to a funeral. Under no circumstances should you loan a used handkerchief to anyone, and never ask for one back. That'd just be gauche.
Andrew says on February 18th, 2010 at 3:27 pm
I don't understand – only tuck a casual shirt in if you're wearing a belt*? What if you're moving around, and have a coat/jumper on? Doesn't that look odd?
Great tips for us geeks with not the faintest idea where to start on this stuff – thanks!
*ignoring the comment about never tucking in if you have belt loops, because I've never seen any men's trousers without belt loops.
john says on February 18th, 2010 at 3:35 pm
This is a bit of a joke isn't it? I don't really care what people wear, I prefer to judge people on their abilities rather than their appearance. I find that as I get older (I'm 45) I get less and less superficial. Sad the writer hasn't grown up yet.
jim james says on February 18th, 2010 at 3:43 pm
Dustin, please don't call yourself a geek, it's insulting to us who are real geeks. Geeks only care about intellect not fashion sense. True intellectuals make their own rules, sheep tend to follow the herd. Baa Baa.
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 3:53 pm
John: I see this precisely the opposite, though I think you'd agree with me nonetheless. When you dress poorly, people don't "judge [you] on [your] abilities rather than [your] appearance." Dressing poorly is a fashion statement as sure as wearing the latest $1,000 skinny jeans. The rules above are meant, above everything else, to *not* get in the way of people seeing you *for* you, instead of for your fashion sense (or lack thereof).
And honestly? For all we think of ourselves as enlightened, non-superficial people, we simply cannot help but make judgments about people based on their appearance. We can override initial assumptions, sure, but to some degree we are always responding to social cues in the environment around us, and fashion is a major one. There's not a society in the world where that's not true.
Liface says on February 18th, 2010 at 3:56 pm
I was going to knock you for being a neckbearded slob in your avatar/profile picture on here, but this is actually good advice.
Leandoro says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:49 pm
Worth pointing out that these tips really only apply to North America. Here in Italy — and most of Europe and Africa — American clothes look floppy and baggy. You wear everything too loose and too long for the rest of us. You might as well be wearing a muumuu.
Leandoro says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:50 pm
Worth pointing out that these tips really only apply to North America. Here in Italy — and most of Europe and Africa — American clothes look floppy and baggy. You wear everything too loose and too long for the rest of us.
aaron says on February 18th, 2010 at 7:59 pm
how could a higher thread count be less durable? can someone explain that to me? I can see that it is not an indicator of durability, but what would cause it to be less durable?
Cory says on February 18th, 2010 at 8:20 pm
I just stay in my house all day so that noone will see me and judge me. That way I don't have to worry about what I'm wearing.
Jadagul says on February 18th, 2010 at 9:06 pm
Dustin and others in hot locales: think about looking into linen shirts and trousers. They're just as formal and nice-looking as cotton or wool, but much cooler. (My linen dress shirts are cooler than a lot of my t-shirts).
Leandoro: That's an entirely different topic, that I don't think anyone here was particularly trying to dress. Personally, I'm American but much prefer the slimmer fit you get in European/Italian cuts. But this is getting into personal and cultural preference, and so is probably a step beyond "newbie."
Lydia Sugarman says on February 18th, 2010 at 9:34 pm
Another part of dressing like a grown-up is going to a really good stylist or barber and letting him/her actually style your hair and beard (if you have facial hair). I have to say that rarely is a center or slightly off-center part a good choice.
John says on February 18th, 2010 at 9:55 pm
Aaron:
"how could a higher thread count be less durable? can someone explain that to me? I can see that it is not an indicator of durability, but what would cause it to be less durable?"
The reason higher thread counts aren't as durable is because they use thinner threads. Therefore higher thread count fabric is usually lighter weight fabric. A suit made of 300 thread per inch fabric would be a cool weather suit with noticably thick threads and quite durable. While an 800 thread per inch suit would be a warm weather,very soft to the touch suit but very fragile.
Dustin Wax says on February 18th, 2010 at 10:54 pm
Jadagul: I love linen, and would love to swaddle myself in nothing but. HOWEVER, it's SO high-maintenance — it wrinkles from taking it off the ironing board! I know that in theory wrinkles are expected with linen, but it always looks rumpled to me. Maybe linen is intermediate…?
Jadagul says on February 19th, 2010 at 1:02 am
Dustin: I've heard two lines on that, actually. Sometimes you hear that linen is more formal specifically because it's harder to take care of; other times you hear that because linen is formal, you want people to know you're wearing it and so you want it to look a little rumpled.
Personally, I'd probably press a linen shirt pretty carefully if I were wearing it to an honest-to-got semiformal event (If I'm wearing it with a proper suit and tie, say). But for the most part I'm going for a nice casual look, and the rumples almost add to that sometimes.
The other option to look into is seersucker (a special type of cotton weave that's a lot cooler), although this one takes a bit of effort–it's not easy to find. Again very specifically looks wrinkled; the wrinkles hold the fabric away from your skin so you have a bit more breathing room.
Harleqin says on February 19th, 2010 at 1:13 am
Regarding "black tie": This always means to wear a tuxedo, which is accompanied by a black bow-tie, dress shirt with fly front and cuffs with cuff-buttons, cummerbund, trousers with a single galon, and smooth shoes (patent-leather shoes).
"White tie" means tailcoat.
Regarding buttoning of suits: Yes, the lowest button is left open, the topmost of three buttons is optional, but please remember always to unbutton the suit when you sit down; otherwise, the suit will be in crimples. When not sitting, always keep the suit closed.
blargh says on February 19th, 2010 at 1:29 am
Looking good by dress is only for the good looking.
If you're fat, ugly or weird looking then people are just humoring you.
You know how hard it is to wear something over your "natural" waist? It's impossible.
I'm quite the fattie myself (trying not to) and just walking into a clothing store makes me feel i just don't belong.
fashion is for the elite.
Joske says on February 19th, 2010 at 1:55 am
About the length of shirt cuffs sticking out, 1/4 to 1/2 inch is rather on the short side imo. Shirts with a French cuff are fine to stick out an inch or so, otherwise the cuff links wouldn't even come out from under the sleeves.
Andy says on February 19th, 2010 at 2:08 am
Great article. I have a couple of points though:
1) If you do wear a handkerchief in your breast pocket and then give it to someone (when they sneeze or whatever), don't take it back. That's disgusting. If you give someone your hanky, it's theirs.
2) The rules about the top shirt button were spot-on but you missed one that I'm sure applies to all the 'geeks' reading this; never EVER button your top button without wearing a tie. As I type this, I'm looking at a guy in my office who has his shirt buttoned all the way up and he looks awful.
Thomas says on February 19th, 2010 at 3:06 am
socks: make sure the socks are long enough and cover your leg, which can be visible. Noone wants to see a hairy man's leg. you can also get sock holders
underwear: do *not* wear a t-shirt under a shirt. go and buy a classical undershirt made of cotton. seeing a t-shirt shine through a shirt with a suit just looks funny
belt: if you are a heavy guy and the belt doesn't really hold your trousers up, wear suspenders. it's classical and practically
colours: you are a guy, so you are lucky: in doubt wear the darker one than the lighter one
kyle5434 says on February 19th, 2010 at 4:42 am
The problem with having too much concern for being "stylish" or looking "nice" is that these are largely social constructions which tend to be a) generational and b) fairly fluid. Button-downs are considered "acceptable" dress shirts for a few years. Then they aren't. Pleats are acceptable for a few years. Then they become a fashion faux pas. Skinny ties are the new look. Then fatter ties displace them. Earth tones are "in" for shirts and accessories. Then richer, more vibrant colors become the norm. Cuffed pants, then pants without cuffs.
I see the basic point about making conscious choices regarding one's clothing, rather than simply doing something because "that's what I've always done". (I have a friend who still buys gray polyester dress slacks for work because those are the type he first bought when he got his job in the mid-'80s). And certainly there are times when it is desirable to own clothing that is outside one's normal repertoire (for funerals, interviews, etc.)
But much of the fashion industry is about about convincing people that their perfectly fine and usable clothing is now somehow unwearable because it's not the latest "style". It's about *creating* a need. It's about moving product. And like lemmings we tend to fork over our cash as we're falling off the cliff, so that we can be accepted by the purveyors of cool and social acceptability.
Certainly there's a place for having a "general" sense of style, and occasionally trying something new, and not doing something because you've always done it that way. And there's a place for "dressing for occasion" (within limits). But the rigid fashion rules outlined in the article tend to vary enough over time that it's folly to take them *too* seriously.
My 2 cents…
Katharine says on February 19th, 2010 at 5:56 am
Ok, now that you're a pro at this, what is the proper socks/shoes combination with a kilt (with varying responses for solid colour and plaid kilts)? ;)
I'd love to pass this on to the hubby, but it's kind of inapplicable – he's a cabinet maker, so I can't really quarrel with what he feels is appropriate work clothing, and his main drive in his non-work fashion is to be innocuous, except he's 6'4" and 350lbs so that's never going to happen. Any tips for casual fashion?
john says on February 19th, 2010 at 6:43 am
I would just like to point out that your shoes should match your belt not you slacks. brown belt, where brown shoes. Black belt where black shoes. In the off chance you want to go more exotic the same is true for a white belt, where white shoes. All that aside your belt should accent you slacks. For instance don't where brown belt with black slacks. Though typically brown looks good with any tans and earthy colors. Black looks good with blacks, greys, and silvers.
The other thing is you seem to have gotten contemporary sport coats confused with polo shirts and sports coats from 100+ years ago. In all cases where a matching suit is not the requirement (i e not the standard interview scene and funerals), the sport coat is just as professional as a full suit. And is seen as such as in the business world. The only real limitation is it really isn't something that you can wear in the same combination every day, unlike a suit.
010011 says on February 19th, 2010 at 7:03 am
TL;DR
Leisureguy says on February 19th, 2010 at 10:23 am
I think you would find the movie Jack Taylor of Beverly Hills to be of great interest. Note that it's available to watch instantly.
Dustin Wax says on February 19th, 2010 at 12:48 pm
Katherine: Don't kilts require their own special, tassely knee-high socks? Though judging from the men I've known who have worn a kilt, I'd say the proper answer to "What socks should a man in a kilt wear?" is "Whatever the h*ll socks he wants. What're YOU gonna do about it?!"
I"m doing some research to see about doing follow-up posts on a) dressing to body type, and b) dressing for leisure (much of the advice above is about dressing casual, but it's business casual or smart casual; when we say "casual" we really mean "for hanging out Saturday afternoon").
The body type stuff is contradictory (pleasts slim, no they make you look fat; wear suspenders, no, don't wear suspenders; and so on) and the leisure style stuff is much more open-ended, so I"m not sure I'll manage to get a post out of either, but if I find out anything useful I'll try.
Jason says on February 19th, 2010 at 2:18 pm
One thing not mentioned here is the preparation of your clothes. Your shirts and Suits should always be sent to the dry cleaners if you want that fresh crisp look. A suit can be worn a few times before it goes to the cleaners but a nice shirt should come right of the hanger from the cleaners. Also, if you want it to be even sharper, put it on over your undershirt a few blocks from your destination. Wearing it in the car while driving can create a lot of wrinkles from your body heat and sitting.
Jadagul says on February 19th, 2010 at 2:29 pm
blargh: you need a better tailor. Lots of storebought stuff is designed for only a few shapes (even in the large sizes; there are a lot of ways to have a 40-inch waist, or whatever, and any given pair of pants can only fit one of them). But a good tailor can get a good look on basically any figure–it's a matter of cutting the clothes so they flatter the wearer.
kyle5434: this is the difference between style and fashion. If you're trying to be fashionable you need to keep changing stuff to keep up with the fashion industry. If you're trying to be stylish, you can pick one style and stick with it whether it's in or not. A good place to start out with a style is the traditional conservative ways of dressing; they've been around long enough that they're unlikely to start looking silly in five years (unlike grey polyester dress slacks).
steveooo says on February 19th, 2010 at 2:37 pm
What is the general rule for a sportcoat vs. a suit? Which is preferrable, and which is better to own?
I have also seen people wear suit pants with a shirt for a more dressy casual look, is this ok?
Dustin Wax says on February 19th, 2010 at 2:45 pm
Steveoooo: If it's a choice between a suit and a sports coat, go with whichever you're likely to wear more often. A Sports coat can be worn with everything from good slacks to jeans, so it's really versatile, but having a suit in the closet is pretty comforting when something comes up like a funeral, wedding, or big job opportunity.
You can wear suit pants separate. BUT you should make sure you dry clean the pieces together so they fade together, otherwise you'll end up with mismatched pieces after a while. You're also puttingwear and tear on the slacks that you aren't putting on the jacket, but that's less of an issue.
Incidentally, the jury is out on wearing the *jacket* on its own. Esquire says it's ok, but others say it's the worst of fashion mistakes. As a Newbie, I'd say best to avoid touching on such a divisive topic. If that makes me unwelcome at Esquire events, so be it!
Morrisa says on February 19th, 2010 at 3:45 pm
Nice advice! Under affectations, especially for all the delicious geeks out there, don't forget your glasses as a fashion statement. Many of you hot smartypants boys wear them every day, and we LOOK at your faces. Frame your eyes well, and maybe even creatively. Acceptibly fashionable ones seem to remain firmly in the rectilinear and not-too-deep category. If you're not a pilot or Eric Estrada, you are attempting to rock another decade, risky if you're not trying for shagadelic look. Save your flex spending pennies from your good benefits package, find a thoughtful salesperson at a good optometrist/eyewear shop (site for sore eyes is acceptable, not excellent) and get something special, rimless in a surprising place or something with a little flash of cool color or something a touch sculptural. Don't go too small to see well or go for something with a garish designer logo. Tacky. If you need bifocals, ask for progressives, so you don't have a distracting line cutting across your gorgeous eyes, and if you're nearsighted, get the lightweight lenses to avoid looking too begoggled nerdly. If the lenses are thick no matter what, go with dark plastic rims that accentuate your braniackitude. Think Elvis Costello or Greg Proops.
If you have flex leftover for sunglasses, you can go even more daring when you're not at work. Laser cut patterns in the metal on the sides, perhaps?
Allison says on February 20th, 2010 at 4:58 am
My tips for learning how to dress yourself well:
1. Go to a high end store and look at the things there first, even if you can't afford them. It will give you an idea of what quality is like. But try to buy at least one really good piece every now and then and it will elevate your whole wardrobe.
2. Talk to the salespeople. They are there to help you.
3. Try lots of things on. Something may look fine on the mannequin, but not suit you. Take a friend or sweetie with you who is patient and will be honest. You can't trust the salespeople at this point.
4. Don't buy it if you don't like it, even if it is on some list or the salesperson recommends it. If you don't like it, you won't wear it. This is especially true when it comes to colour. Stick with colours/styles you LIKE.
5. Stick to a limited palette and you'll be able to mix most of your items.
6. Don't buy pants at the low end chains. They will shrink up and end up too short.
Don't buy shirts at the low end chains. They do look cheap and even non-fashion mavens can tell. If you want to dress better it will cost more than jeans and tshirts.
Amy says on February 20th, 2010 at 7:08 am
I have always felt at a disadvantage when trying to help my sons who are young men and often need to up their dress game. Your clear and simple guidelines are much appreciated.
Mr bootyluver says on February 20th, 2010 at 8:01 am
Sorry but have to put you right in the UK London and other cities Pants are trousers underpants is what we wear under our pants so don't worry ppl we won't laugh if u dirty ur pants. However if u tell us u dirtied your underpants we will probably look at you and then edge slowly away. Good article though.
Brian says on February 20th, 2010 at 10:18 am
There are some great pieces of advice here. Follow this advice, get your suit tailored to fit you, and you'll be sure to look good. Another question that could be asked is, "Where to buy these things"–I know nice suits can cost a fortune, but I've discovered with a little looking on Gilt or eBay, great suits in completely new condition can be found if you're not TOO picky about exact pattern, etc. from amazing brands from Zegna to Ralph Lauren Black Label. Usually you can aim to get 70-80% off on a suit's retail price, which is a HUGE savings if you're going for one of the best. The disadvantage is, of course, that it might not fit you perfect off the rack–definitely always buy in your size, but DO go to the tailors. http://www.gilt.com/invite/brianty1
Casual-it-up says on February 20th, 2010 at 11:54 am
Hey for people who don't understand work casual the easy rule for it is this:
Collared shirt that you tuck in (no T-shirts, no shirts with things printed all over them and NO holes)+ khaki pants (jeans are at home/with a friend casual NOT job causal. Think carptner jeans are called that becuase carptners wear them. If thats not you do not wear it) + leather shoes (they don't need to by too fancy just a pair of brown or black leather loafers) +mathcing belt (brown belt with brown shoes, black belt with black shoes).
So remember casual is just
collared shirt + khakis+ Leather shoes +belt.
If you know what you are doing you can play with this formula but if not than this will leave you looking professional without looking too stiff
Fiona says on February 20th, 2010 at 5:37 pm
I'd love to see a similar article for the women among us who have no fashion sense whatsoever. :D
Steph says on February 20th, 2010 at 5:41 pm
Another one for men: Make sure your dress socks are long enough that your pants don't hike up and expose a length of pale, hairy calf to whomever may be sitting across from you. This happens especially often if a man shifts position while sitting, or if he crosses one leg over the other knee.
Female job interviewers especially are creeped out by this unintended physical display. It seems petty, but I've heard this complaint a few times.
Elizabeth says on February 20th, 2010 at 7:11 pm
My husband sent me a link to this asking if there was anyway he could forward this a few coworkers (they're engineers who have to wear ties).
I think this article is great. It's hard, even for a fairly fashionable girlfriend/wife to help. I learned the rules for women's clothes but not mens.
One thing I'll add: my husband wears a 16.5/38 shirt. It's not easy find. Land's End has some great no-iron shirts in a huge range of sizes.
f. garza says on February 20th, 2010 at 8:00 pm
some of these are the basics but I just don't think one needs to have three suits in their wardrobe maybe a navy one but that's it.
E-Commerce How To says on February 21st, 2010 at 8:01 am
Just a small addition to this list. personally i love contrast, so black or dark blue pants with nice light brown watch, belt and shoes.
Annabel Candy, Get I says on February 21st, 2010 at 4:49 pm
Just thought I'd better check this out to see why it's so popular. I think I know… a common problem, honestly tackled and although you provide the solution you also admit you're new to this so any extra help would be appreciated.
It was hilarious too so thanks for making me smile.
Really, it is common and I am feeling the same problem now I have to get out of the house once a week and go to a business networking group!
I wonder what affection you'll be adpoting. I can't see you in a fedora but a cool ring might look good. Or maybe a groovy hat…
Tony says on February 21st, 2010 at 6:34 pm
Very helpful article. As a lawyer who has always worked in a business casual law firm but recently realized that the big guns with the big clients dress for success, I've recently spent a fair amount of time and money stepping up my game. (Message: people–bosses/clients/women judge you on your appearance. Get over it or don't leave the house). Here are some simple guidelines I was taught:
1. Above all else, make sure your clothes fit well. If they aren't comfortable, then you won't wear them and they won't look good no matter how much they cost. The money you pay for alterations and tailoring is well spent. If your dress clothes feel as comfortable as your jeans, you'll find yourself becoming a better dresser without even thinking about it.
2. A white, spread collar, cotton dress shirt is the most versatile shirt you can own and will match any color suit and tie. Wear collar stays. Have the sales clerk measure you. (This is more complicated than S/M/L/XL.)
3. With apologies to the earlier posters, hardly anybody wears black suits except to funerals (at least here in the midwest). I believe a man's first suit should be blue, either solid or a chalk stripe. Your second should be gray or brown, depending on your coloring and preference.
4. Unless you wear them often, don't spend more than $30 on a tie. They go in and out of fashion too quickly and they are too easily ruined by spills. Get professional help on this. Buy one or two ties when you buy the suit and have the sales clerk recommend matching ties.
5. On the topic of ties, a bad tie makes the best suit look irrelevant. Novelty ties are bad.
6. Your first pair of dress shoes should be black or cordovan/oxblood lace-ups. They will go with a gray suit, most blue suits, and most brown suits. Use cedar shoe trees. Polish them often, even a quick shine with the silicone-soaked sponge.
7. When in doubt, wear black socks.
8. Take your wife/girlfriend with you when you shop. Ask her for advice. She will not steer you wrong. If you're single, you probably have a good female friend who dresses well. Ask her to go with you. She will say yes and be flattered that you asked.
9. Most people dryclean their suits too often, which causes them to wear out faster. Unless you get all sweaty, a suit can be worn 6-8 times between drycleanings.
10. Always wear a white t-shirt under your dress shirt.
Ryan Waldron says on February 22nd, 2010 at 11:34 am
Cuffs are for pleated pants. straight bottoms are for flat fronts. The end.
Also, I agree that the first suit should be navy or gray, but I believe the second suit should be poplin, khaki, white linen, or seersucker, as the only acceptable place for such a dark suit in the summer is a funeral. Also, for the third suit, you might want to specify that it not actually be a black suit, but be real formal wear. (living in New Orleans, I actually found myself owing a set of Tail and white tie before I owned a business suit.)
Ajay says on February 22nd, 2010 at 11:09 pm
A good article, and a good start to some basics.
Your first two suits should be navy blue and charcoal or light grey, medium weight and definitely wool. Not cotton.
If you're going to wear a suit pant seperately, consider buying an extra pair of pants for your suit. They go through the most wear and interchanging them could double the lifespan of your suit.
Don't dryclean any more than 2-3 time PER YEAR! And when doing so, make sure you dry clean the pants and jacket together – otherwise you'll start to see different wear patterns as the suit ages. If the suit is wrinkled – get it pressed.
A black suit is really not necessary these days and isn't very versatile. If you do have black tie events to attend on a regular basis, do yourself a a favor and invest in a tux. You can pair this with a simple, black tie and a plain white shirt.
Also, if you're able to get a suit custom made (much much cheaper outside the US) A high quality, custom, medium weight suit in Hong Kong for example goes for US$300 – US$500 and can easily be double that in the US. Keep your eyes open when you travel – it only takes two days and you can feel the difference. Good tailoring is worth it and you should have a tailor that can adjust your off the rack suits as well.
Invest in a couple of well made cotton / cotton blend white shirts that can go with anything. Next step, light blue and pink. Wide spread collars are best for power knots, narrow spread collars for skinny knots.
If you're wearing a tie, make sure you know how to tie a solid power knot. You'll need a thick tie that has some substance.
timgray says on February 23rd, 2010 at 6:07 am
Stop dressing "trendy" ok the leather dress shoes that look like sneakers make you look "messy" just because the office is "casual" dies not mean jeans and t-shirt. Get at least a nice polo and some comfortable kaki's along with a plain belt and shoes that match the belt.
The number of doofuses we have here in the office looking like Mens Heath model rejects is astounding. It's ok to be half shaved after work, not at work. This is not Miami vice in the 80's and you're not Don Johnson..
Great advice, I hope more "hipsters" read and listen.
timgray says on February 23rd, 2010 at 6:17 am
@blargh This is not true. buy clothes that are your size. Too many "fat" men wear things that are either too small or way too big and end up looking like slobs. I have known many "fat guys" that look downright good in business attire, one that was well over 400 pounds and he looked clean and sharp.
You have to go to a big and tall mens shop though. And actually spend money. your stuff will end up costing 25-40% more than the toothpick line.
Serge says on February 24th, 2010 at 3:17 am
Are these comments a reflection of this site's audience?! Just by reading this one gets the feeling that male Americans are beyond help.
Luckily, there are sites like this one to prove quite the opposite:
http://thesartorialist.blogspo.....h/label/...
Dustin Wax says on February 24th, 2010 at 4:04 pm
Serge: I wouldn't necessarily say that, but there are a few things to consider. First, Lifehack's readership probably skews slightly to the "geeky", people in tech jobs and similar workplaces, and the self-employed, all of whom are probably not used to worrying about style issues much. Second, a big chunk of our readership are younger, recent college grads, who are entering the workforce without any direct instruction on how to navigate workplace dress codes. And finally, I'm not sure where you're from (your reference to "male AMERICANS" hints that you aren't American, but I could be wrong) but there's a strong resistance among many Americans to being told how to dress — it smacks of conformity. Now, I'd say the "rebellious" jeans and t-shirt are just as much a uniform as the suit-and-tie of the banker crowd, but it doesn't *feel* that way to a lot of Americans.
Juice says on February 25th, 2010 at 4:56 pm
Pretty good starter. A few of points I would like to add:
Trouser cuffs should be 1.5-2 inches. I only put cuffs on pleated trousers. Cuffs add weight to the legs of the trousers ensuring pleats stay flat. Flat front trousers may have cuffs, but I prefer them with no cuffs, unless they're part of a suit.
Trousers should sit at the natural waist, located at the belly button, or just slightly below it. Three inches is too low. When buying trousers, make sure that they fit comfortably around the waist at the belly button. Too many men who should wear a size 38 waist believe that they are still a size 34 because they wear their trousers around their pelvis. This actually makes you look fatter because your trousers fit tighter than they should.
As a general rule, socks should match trousers. Perhaps not the exact same color, but close. If you've mastered the style rules, you can stray from them. I wear red socks with dark gray flannel trousers and black shoes; and bright green socks with khaki chinos and brown shoes. DON'T MATCH YOUR SOCKS TO YOUR SHIRT!
Shoes don't always have to be the same tone or darker than the trousers. Navy trousers always look better with brown, or mahogany shoes. If you're not a master of style and are afraid you'll look ridiculous, having shoes darker than the trousers is OK.
Finally, contrary to one poster's suggestion, please don't take your girlfriend, girl friend, fiancee, wife, mother, sister, etc. shopping with you. Women don't know men's style rules. They will dress you like a woman. Instead, ask the men who work at reputable mean's wear stores, or in the men's department of stores such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom for advice on what to buy. If you have a male friend who has a great sense of style, take them with you. You aren't eight years old, so never take a woman to help you look like a man.
Most of men's style rules have royal, equestrian or military roots. A good Web site for men's style is http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com
You've posted a good starter's list. Men's style rules are pretty standard but may vary slighly depending on the expert you ask. Learn as much as possible, then feel free to break them, as long as you know what you're doing. Have fun fellas!
lifestyle week says on February 26th, 2010 at 1:58 am
I think the tips are simple great and can never grow out of fashion. One can always add a little more or subtract a little from your suggestion so that they can redefine their own style. If following you blindly do not lead to fashion faux pas then one can always stick to them…Good work!
Jasmine says on February 27th, 2010 at 7:16 pm
Thank you so much for posting this. I'm a female college student, and I see plenty of men (admittedly, both students and teachers) who could use this sort of advice. More importantly, I know they would actually be able to easy to understand it, coming from a geek's point of view.
Flashman says on March 1st, 2010 at 12:15 pm
How about – don't wear flares!
Prof says on March 2nd, 2010 at 8:52 am
Rule #1 — never look to an academic for fashion advice!
Scott says on March 2nd, 2010 at 5:25 pm
Work in a profession where suits are still required and so have gobs more than only three and not one of them is a solid black. Have a couple of charcoal gray ones and are dark enough for wearing to funerals and any other "social" events (i.e., weddings where guests dressing in black now seems to be in vogue). Actual black tie affairs (opening night at the opera, festive gala ball, etc. are few and far between and when you are going to one you will want a real tux (i.e., has the glossy lapels, ruffled shirt, black paten shoes, etc.), not a mere black suit, so you will probably wind up renting a tux and trimmings anyway.
Overlooked in article are sport coats, they come in all different colors, styles, fabrics, etc. Start building a collection. Since the level of formality in manner men dress everyday and for special events has declined so radically. A sport coat and trousers (often perceived as a suit) is as dressy as you will probably need to be for most occasions. Besides most of them can be "dressed down" and worn with a pair of khakis or blue jeans and used as a substitute for a cheep windbreaker on a chilly day.
Shirts should be always be tucked in regardless of what covers bottom half of body. Shirt left untucked looks childish and immature. Because a tie covers the shirt's buttons, dress pants and suit trousers need a narrow belt in the loops around waist and it should be same black, brown, or tan color as the shoes worn that day.
A poster commented earlier about some people not having on any belt. Don't recommend this when dressed up in a suit or out sporting baggy cargo pants. However, with traditional Levi's 501 style blue jeans, I never thread a belt around them. Being short and skinny, found years ago I could get away without it.
Alison Moore Smith says on March 12th, 2010 at 3:17 pm
Just wanted to say it was great fun reading the varied opinions on style. And I'm sad to hear that acid washed jeans are no longer in style. If only I could keep up with this stuff!
enrolled agent says on March 13th, 2010 at 2:08 pm
The jacket and the shades would look great on me. :P
LuckVIII says on March 29th, 2010 at 2:41 pm
How do you deal with watches? digital casio or no digital. Do i have to wear a black band watch if i wear a black belt?
Abby says on April 22nd, 2010 at 4:30 pm
I agree with a few others who have posted here, please (please please) get a female writer to do a women's version of this! I need it!
Laura says on June 8th, 2010 at 12:02 am
I work in retail and I see a lot of men that do not know how to dress themselves (white socks with dress pants, pleated pants, ill fitting dress blazers, wearing the wrong size shirt, name it.. I've probably seen it). I always try to help but I see them going back to what they're comfortable with. I highly recommend this article for all men that do know have a personal fashion style.
David says on July 23rd, 2010 at 8:19 pm
Wonderful post! Just a few comments and corrections, to join the fray.
Dress Suits
1)
a) The chief difference between chalk stripe and pin stripe is width. Chalk stripes tend to be more muted because more intense ones overwhelm the outfit and/or make you look like a mobster, but there are certainly muted pin-stripes to be had.
b) A black suit that is not a tuxedo is inappropriate at black tie (or, to the minds of some, anywhere but a funeral). If you do not have what it takes to turn out in black tie, a conservative charcoal suit is much better than a near miss. If you want much detail on how to do black tie right, see http://www.blacktieguide.com
2) Suits are also made of linen (particularly nice in the summer), but your first few should be wool, period.
Shoes
1) Hear, hear! Note that with some bargain hunting, you can do quite well for yourself without completely breaking the bank. The defects on Allen Edmonds seconds are rarely noticeable, never structural, and the price is quite a bit lower than the firsts, particularly during the outlet's bi-annual sales. From my personal experience, I couldn't recommend more highly.
3) If you will be wearing dress shoes regularly, you need three pairs (as they should be let to rest two days between wears).
Accessories
3) a) They work fine with hiking boots, too, if you'll be hiking.
David says on July 23rd, 2010 at 8:24 pm
You're stuck with the stripes on the trouser seams, if you want to be correct (advisable!). The lapel facings shouldn't be the same material as the rest of the coat, but you do have some options there. Silk grosgrain, for instance, is correct while being much less flashy than satin.
Finally, trust the classics – they're classic for a reason. Proper black tie really does make most men look great.
David says on July 23rd, 2010 at 8:36 pm
Confusion on the part of the poster. The numbers often given with regard to fabric (Super 110, etc) do signify, in part, quality of the material but they are not thread count – they are closer to "thread fine-ness", which should make clear how it corresponds to lighter, but less durable garments.
David says on July 23rd, 2010 at 8:38 pm
Unless they thoughtfully return it later after laundering.
dssd says on August 3rd, 2010 at 3:17 pm
Man he left a lot of things out of this post.
Shoes: no square-toed or pointy toed. Fucking period. Don't shop at Aldo, and you'll probably be fine.
Suits: two-button suits only. No double breasted, no 3 or 4 buttons.
Shirts: Don't tuck your shirts into a pair of jeans. you look like al borland.
pants: no pleats. period. keep them slim, but not skinny (yes, even if your fat — they should be slim on you, not slim on a someone smaller than you).
Michael B says on August 11th, 2010 at 6:57 pm
Great Fashion tips! i really appreciate the post! And if you are interested in shopping after tips like that then try looking in the men's clothing section at overstock.com
- http://www.overstock.com/Cloth.....ens-Clot...